The most protesting and anarchist neighborhood in Athens is torn between gentrification, the need to adapt to new times and the desire to preserve its essence.
For many years, Exarchia was for many synonymous with clashes with the police, burning cars, riots and drugs, but also with underground bars, legendary after-hours parties and nightlife in general. However, in recent times, widespread gentrification of the city has changed the landscape. And Exarchia, in addition to being too central to remain unchanged, is also a nuclear part of the heart of Athens precisely because of its character as the capital’s enfant terrible. Just a month ago, Time Out magazine placed it in thirty-first position on its list of the coolest neighborhoods in the world: Exarchia is riding the wave of its popularity with mixed feelings. There is a large open front in the area, and it is the subway: the works that intend to place the station in the square arouse the suspicion of the locals, who perceive a desire to dissolve the most “warrior” nucleus of the city, and the protests They are our daily bread.
But, on the other hand, daily life continues in this triangular district located between the Panepistimio and Omonia metro stations and the axis of Alexandra Avenue, which has spaces of such importance as the Archaeological Museum or the Pedío tu Αreos. Both are good examples of the positive changes experienced in this part of the city: while a few years ago, the recommendation was not to enter the Pedío tu Αreos once the sun went down, today you will be able to see people of all ages and conditions walking around and, with a little luck, maybe they’ll even come across a concert.
The same is true to a certain extent with the Archaeological Museum: visitors entered and exited through the main façade, but the side and back streets (Sturnari, Tositsa, Saimi) offered a desolate panorama; Now you will see them full of new establishments eager to take on the world. The Archaeological Museum, by the way, is an essential visit to the city of Athens: there we can see pieces from all the civilizations of the Aegean and continental Greece, an impressive collection of objects from Egypt, and true treasures such as the Mask of Agamemnon, among many other things. Do not miss it.
Let’s continue to distance ourselves from the stereotype of the street guerrilla: next to the French Institute of Athens, on Sina Street (natural border of Exarchia-Neapolis with the more stately Kolonaki), you will also find the German Evangelical Church, influenced by Bauhaus, where you can attend very select sacred music concerts at no cost.
In the square is the Bibliotèque bookstore, a meeting place where it is as easy to attend a small concert as a book presentation, and on the very central Valtetsíu street is the Fagotto books bookstore-toy store, specializing in music.
Speaking of toy stores, Neapolis has one of the most well-kept in Athens: Anelixi, located on Ipocratus Street. It is a small place that focuses on quality toys and games, and where the sellers will know how to guide us when it comes to giving a gift (we recommend the umbrellas, they are exquisite and economical). I’m sure they find it harder to leave the store than to enter it.
Another sector that flourishes in Exarchia and Neapolis are vinyl stores; When we say that it flourishes, we are not exaggerating: only on Themistocleus Street you can find three or four (among them the legendary Vinylio Record Store Café), but without a doubt some of the most notable establishments are Rock ‘n’ Roll Circus, Discobole and Vinyl City.
In Exarchia and Neapolis there are also many cinemas, both open-air and indoor. The very famous Vox and Riviera, for example, are great favorites of the capital’s film buffs. But also the Ekran, the Alphaville and the Panathinea, inseparable companions of summer nights.
If we are looking for life and entertainment, but we are not particularly night owls, the Saturday morning fruit and vegetable market in Kalidromiu is perfect for us, since it combines everything: on the one hand, a traditional market of those held in all neighborhoods of Athens (on different days of the week); On the other hand, the market always provides the perfect excuse to go have a coffee with the friends you run into or meet, and in this way, on Saturday mornings the cafes of Exarchia and Neapolis are a bustling with people with bags greeting each other, meeting each other and passing from table to table.
One of the latest discoveries in the area is well worth a stop for a comforting snack: it is The black salami, microbakery, as they call themselves (or mini-bakery, so we understand each other). But, if classics are your thing, you can also go to Αrtiston, which has been satisfying the hunger of passers-by all its life.
We are not talking about coffees: they have a lot to choose from, and there is no need to search. Of course, we have some favorites, like Jartes, one of the “old” cafes, Selas, as pleasant during the day as it is at night, or Blue Bear, one of the “new” ones.
If you’re starting to get hungry, don’t worry: that won’t be a problem either. The area has a wide range of possibilities: from the most traditional taverns, such as I Lefka or Pinaleon, to the Cretan flavor of Rakumel or the particular charm of Ama Lachi‘s dishes. Not to mention the gourmet touch of Miss Neapolis, another of the places that has managed to find a place in the wide range of offerings in the area.
Other interesting places are Susurada (the Greek name for the wagtail bird), an all-day bar that, in addition to an unbeatable location, offers an unbeatable commitment to good food and quality ingredients, and Tanini agapi mu, a wine bar one of the most active that also organizes wine tastings and even monthly classes.
If we are looking for a “restaurant restaurant”, we can always opt for Yiantes, a diachronic value, or risk trying one of the most talked about novelties in recent times, Pharaoh, the bet of chef Manolis Paputsakis: a restaurant -wine bar-audiophile bar where cooking is done without electricity, only with firewood.
On the other hand, if informal is what we like, there is no need to give up quality: we can always go to Ι Lesvos and enjoy their seafood and fish tapas combined with ouzo, or to Hayat to lick our fingers tasting Kurdish specialties . Or even Cookoomela, a vegan suvlaki establishment—something you won’t find anywhere else, I guarantee it.
Once your appetite is satisfied, it will be time to go for a drink. The Santaroza has one of the longest bars in the city, serves good cocktails and has the vocation of a classic bar. Another option is Alexandrinos, much loved by locals for its warm atmosphere and the quality of its cocktails. To continue the party and dance until dawn we can go to Ayios, where the young clientele surprises by dancing especially to Greek music; If we are looking for a panorama more typical of the underground character of the neighborhood, we can go to the Skullbar, where rock music will accompany us until the early hours of the morning. When we leave, a new stop at the bakery and… go to sleep!
In short, Exarchia is a must-visit to get to know the center of Athens and breathe in the most hooligan atmosphere of the capital. Do not miss it.