For many years, Kolonaki was the neighborhood of Athens’ urban upper classes. It was the elegant and expensive district of the city center. The area had such an aristocratic character (especially compared to others) during the ’50s and ’60s that it gave rise to the expression “laos kai Kolonaki”, which means “people and Kolonaki”, a phrase that in turn inspired unforgettable movies and a song from 1959. Its name means “little column”, which is explained because in the 19th century, a two-meter marble pillar was erected there as part of a Christian ceremony with pagan features, in order to ward off the danger of epidemics.
However, nowadays, despite still retaining a certain glamour, especially noticeable in the brands and prices of its commercial area, Kolonaki has been engulfed by the city center, and we say this for a good reason: it is a lively neighborhood that does not differ much from the others that make up the heart of Athens.
The most emblematic place in the neighborhood is the Square “FilikisEtaireias”, named after the main secret society that prepared the revolution against the Ottoman Empire (because that is its true name, although it is generally known as Kolonaki Square); at the moment, it is fenced off, so you won’t be able to see much: works are underway to bring the metro to the neighborhood. Nevertheless, it is a very frequented area, as it is relatively close to many key sites: Syntagma Square, the B&M Theocharakis Foundation, the Benaki Museum, the Museum of Cycladic Art, the Byzantine Museum, the War Museum, Lycabettus Hill, the British Institute, the Cervantes Institute, and most embassies, as well as the city’s most prestigious hotels.
The difficulty lies, as almost always in Athens, in finding a place to park the car. A paid parking system has been adopted (1 euro per hour), with tickets purchased at kiosks; there are also private parking lots, both covered and open-air, but the price is around 10 euros per hour. In addition, there are parking zones reserved for residents of the area: they are marked with a blue line. However, even though the metro has not yet reached the square, the Evangelismos station will not leave you far (you have to climb a rather steep slope, though). The Syntagma station may also be convenient, from where you can reach Kolonaki with a pleasant stroll, for example, by going up through the flower shops under the Parliament or cutting through the streets of the center; but before that, don’t forget to stop by Aristokratikon, a third-generation artisan chocolatier with only two establishments in Athens: one in Syntagma Square and the other in the Kifisia neighborhood. As a fair alternative for those who are not fond of sweets, opposite you will find Ariston, the king of pitas (pastries) in general and the cheese pie (tiropita kourou) in particular.
On the way to Kolonaki, you will also pass by the French bakery Paul; if you feel peckish, stop to taste their exquisite croissants before continuing your walk; Right here, you are practically a stone’s throw away from the Numismatic Museum, nestled in the Iliou Melathron palace, boasting a treasure trove of ancient coins. And let me tell you, it is not just the history buffs who should swing by. This joint also happens to house one of the swankiest garden cafes in downtown Athens, where, on select nights, you can groove to some live jazz tunes. While you are in the hood, make a pit stop at Politeia, the book haven of Athens, or swing by Polyglot, where you’ll be blown away by their stellar selection of Spanish lit (and other languages, too). Sure, it might take a little detour, but trust me, it is worth veering onto Voukourestiou Street to hit up Kolonaki. You do not want to be fooled into thinking Dionysiou Areopagitou is the only pedestrian paradise in town.
Once you are in the ritzy neighborhood of Kolonaki, take the opportunity to stroll and go shopping, as it is a well-kept area (the bourgeois past had to serve for something) with streets dotted with neoclassical buildings and shop windows. There are plenty of shoe stores and jewelry shops (two of the great weaknesses of Athenian women), as well as boutiques of Greek designers, but also new stores that have sprung up in recent years and bring a breath of fresh air to the commercial landscape of the area, which revolves particularly around Skoufa, (where the Cervantes Institute is located and the church of St. Dionysius the Areopagite, patron saint of Athens, in neobaroque style), Patriarchou Ioakeim, Anagnostopoulou, Kanari, Kapsali, Milioni, and Tsakalof streets, the latter two pedestrian. Some of the most exclusive stores are: Callista (bags and leather goods), Ancient Greek Sandals (handcrafted leather sandals untreated with chemicals that combine design and quality and follow the minimalist aesthetic of classical Greece), Zeus + Dione (clothing and accessories inspired by ancient Greece), the jewelry of Anna-María Mazaraki, good value-for-money items that draw on Greek tradition, Vourakis Gifts, where you will find jewelry and other gift items, or the high-end jewelry of Maramenos Pateras, Gofas, or Kessaris. If you are looking for an elegant yet original and charming gift, do not hesitate: head to Thalassa Collection to find ties or scarves with typical Greek motifs: the eye, the owl, the boats, etc. There is also a magnificent bookstore, a great example of the new venues that are emerging in Athens: Booktique.
As for cafes and terraces, well, you know, we are in Athens: the day they are scarce will be the day the world truly ends. We will find classic places, meeting spots for journalists, politicians, and television personalities, such as Da Capo, the favorite of the current Prime Minister, or Filion, frequented by artists and intellectuals, which serves everything from coffee and sweets to home-cooked food, but also new additions like Alfiere Caffe Italian Bar or Il Gatto Caffe, to name just two. Another classic spot where we can have coffee in the morning, but which reaches its peak at noon with beers and “mezedes” (small snacks), is Dexameni café, a charming corner among pines and poplars. By the way, this place was one of the favorite spots of famous writers, like Nikos Kazantzakis, to mention just one. If you have a sweet tooth, don’t miss Désiré pastry shop and its Saint-Honoré cake, their specialty since 1962, although their butter cookies and Christmas sweets are also excellent.
However, if we want to stop for a meal, we can treat ourselves to Zurbarán (no, it doesn’t seem to have any relation to the Spanish painter), which has the merit of being excellent both in sushi and hamburgers, or Brunello (where we tried a grouper that was finger-licking good, only the chic atmosphere didn’t allow for it). We can also head to one of the Greek cuisine restaurants in the area: you will have to choose between Oikeio, Kiouzin, Birbilo, Filippu (a third-generation tavern with excellent homemade food and good prices that also delivers to homes and offices), or Papadakis, the restaurant of chef Argiro Babarigou, a kind of Greek Jamie Oliver. If you do not eat meat, or in any case prefer fish, something that is not always easy in Athens despite being a port city, head to Barbounaki; and if you are looking for a good trattoria (surely you’ve noticed the Greeks’ great appreciation for Italian cuisine), try Cappana. We can also go down, almost to the confluence with the center, to reach City Link, where we can recharge at Caffe Clemente, with its excellent sandwiches, or at Pasaji, which offers a daily menu, something not very common in Greece. They are good places to rest and regain strength after visiting Attica department store, the most famous in the capital.
That said, Kolonaki may be elegant and bourgeois, but it will not fail to have an open-air market (laiki agora, literally “popular market”). There we will find fruits and vegetables, a great variety of olives and traditional cheeses, fish, plants, aromatic herbs, flowers, and even clothes. I am fascinated by wandering through the markets of the cities I visit because that way one gets to know the tastes and character of the people, as well as seeing and smelling local products, and even comparing prices. Another thing that cannot be missing in an Athenian neighborhood is the summer cinema; in this case, we are talking about Dexameni, but beware!, foreign films are always subtitled in Greek and only children’s movies are dubbed.
Nut shops, which are also a genre in themselves in Athens, have a worthy representative in Kolonaki: the Carpo chain. There you will find nuts, yes, but also freshly ground coffee or delicious chocolates, among many other delicacies. If we prefer savory, we can also visit the Kostarelos cheese shop, where we will find a wide variety of cheeses and dairy products from their own production, as well as many other delicacies, both sweet and savory, selected by the establishment itself.
And, to finish, what better than to go to The Apivita Experience Store, five floors dedicated to the most well-known natural products brand in the country, conceived by a Greek couple of pharmacists, nature lovers, who were inspired by the life of bees (in Latin apis and vita) to develop a complete range of holistic products for women, men, and children. You can get a massage, go shopping, or have a cup of tea, or perhaps all three? Another option for those who want to end the day with a little treat is the Kolonaki branch of Gino, a hairdressing salon and beauty salon at reasonable prices, also present in other corners of Athens.
Or, if not, we can end the day by savoring a cocktail at one of the bars in this neighborhood… Ippopótamos, for example, a classic venue (in the Athenian style) with wonderful decor, or Rock and Roll, a reference point in the nightlife scene during the 90s, which has come back strong after a brief hiatus, and some claim it has the best bar in Athens.